don't forget to call your mother: 10 days in Torres del Paine

After making our hasty escape from the tábanos last week, Lesley and I headed south to Puerto Natales. Puerto Natales is a tiny town catered towards the outdoor enthusiast. Neighboring Torres Del Paine, considered one of the world’s most renowned national parks, the city draws climbers and trekkers from around the globe. Hiking boots dominate store windows and you’re more likely to see a woman carrying an internal frame backpack than a purse.

Torres Del Paine - A star of Chile's national park system.

At the trail head - loaded down with about 50 lbs of gear and food.

We ventured down to this part of Southern Patagonia to visit Torres del Paine and hike around the Cordillera del Paine, the centerpiece of the trail. Since we had the time (and were confident that no tábanos were present), we opted to do the entire circuit, a 150 km (~93 mile) long trek that loops through the reserve. After loading up with soup packets, oatmeal, gorp, and the other camping necessities, we hopped on the bus to the trail head and began the loop. The first stretch of our journey was through the park's more remote and less used northern section of the trail. Here we got our first taste of the incredible scenery that draws tourists from around the world.

Scene looking back from the first hill we climbed.

Grazing horses with a better view than most.

Looking down into the first valley where our first camp sat along the river.

No shortage of wild flowers and scenery to keep our eyes occupied while we hiked to our first camp.

On the second day, we crossed the aptly named El Paso de Viento (The Windy Pass). Neither of us had ever experienced wind quite like this. At points, we were literally brought to our knees, hugging rocks or shrubs to keep from falling over. Gentle rain drops were transformed into stinging projectiles. I shot this video as Lesley was around one of the windier corners of the pass.

The start of day two / the calm before the wind storm.

The glacier runoff contains particulate which turns the water into a light grey/blue.

After the first pass, bigger mountains lay ahead.

Our biggest challenge came on day four when we crossed El Paso John Garner. Known for occasional whiteout snow storms, even during the summer, the hype leading up to this pass caused more anxiety than the actual hike itself. When we arrived at our campsite on day 3, we met many of the hikers who that day attempted to cross the pass but were turned back because of extreme wind and snow. As they walked into camp, drenched, shivering, and demanding whiskey, we grew a bit more anxious for what lay in store. Luckily, the weather gods were on our side and provided us a storm free day.

Big mountains with lots of new snow. Luckily the weather held out on the day we crossed the pass

Day 4, hoping for clear skies.

As we crossed the pass at 1241 meters, the trail’s highest point, we got our first glimpse of Glacier Grey, an overwhelming mass of ice that fills the valley below and stretches far into the mountain range. Once at the top, we quickly forgot how sore we were from the day’s climb and were both stricken by the immensity of ice.

At the top of the pass with out first views of Glacier Grey.

So happy to be at the top that for a moment she forgot how cold she was.

The immensity of Glacier Grey can make you like a spec on the horizon.

Once past the most challenging section of the trail, we joined the W, a more popular and accessible section of the circuit.

Camp sites start to fill up, but with views like this, it's hard to complain.

On day 8, we took a side trip up the Valle de Frances, in my opinion the most spectacular part of the trek. Hiking up this valley provides incredible panorama views of the mountains that no one picture could capture (so I took a video instead).