Brutal Patagonian Initiation Hike

Since our four days of stumbling up and down the thousands of stairs built by the Incas in Peru, we have taken four bus rides, one plane trip and one very turbulent boat voyage to arrive at our first trail head in Patagonia Chile. This trek was to be a rather remote yet simple three day trip totaling 40 km in the Lakes District through farmland and rain forest. While it was indeed remote and beautiful as expected, the trek turned out to be far from easy thanks to a lovely native Chilean insect called the tábano.

Lonely Planet describes the tábano horseflies that thrive in the Lakes District for the month of January as a ‘nuisance’. I consider a neighbor’s dog barking all night long a nuisance. It is a nuisance when I hit every red light when I’m running late for an appointment. Hang nails, missing a bus, parking tickets… trivial and tolerable….these are all frustrations I would classify as nuisances. This simple misinterpretation of Lonely Planet’s word choice turned our simple first trek into two and a half days of physical and psychological torment at the mercy of the tábanos.

At the end of the first day, Zach pointed out that we looked exactly like Pig-Pen from the Peanuts.

We got our first taste of the tábanos as our boat was bouncily taking us to our trail head from which point the only way out was a three day walk. The bugs were the size of large bumblebees and perhaps even noisier as they buzzed incessantly around your body looking for a chance to bite you through your clothes. While the windy boat ride provided some solace, once we were dropped at the trail, they were on us and were not to be shaken. I initially managed to maintain some sanity as we made our way through a barn and some woods all the while with about five to ten tábanos swarming my head. During this time, we met Hector whose family owns property along the trail and would turn out to be a complete savior.

 After about 25 minutes we came to a clearing of pastures set against forest and mountains. I think it was beautiful, but all I really remember is the tábano count escalating to about thirty ‘nuisances’ buzzing and biting, swarming and terrorizing. And then I went completely mad. I clumsily ran, flailed my arms, and screamed seeking out refuge from the incessant harassment in the forest. I was that crazy person in a swarm that I've mocked in movies. When I finally stumbled into the forest, it didn't stop. They were still all over me, buzzing and biting, and would be for the next three days.

When Zach reached me hyperventilating and spewing expletives in the forest in the fetal position, he helped me pull it together. We came to terms with what would be our less than pleasant trekking companions, covered our bodies from head to toe (even though it was 80 degrees) for some bite shielding and plugged into our iPods to drown out the relentless buzzing. While hiking as fast as possible listening to NPR and TED talks is neither of our ideal versions of our first Patagonia trek, it kept me from running off a cliff or into a river in ridiculous panic. Additional challenges came on the suspension bridges that were extremely rickety, requiring balance, total focus and slow steps. It was a very serious test of mental control for me. I had to let them swarm, land and bite me, or risk falling in the river. I may sound melodramatic, but the threat felt very immediate.

Trying to keep it together.

Tábano defense: iPod, bandana, hat and sleeves. And you're still probably screwed.

While we had packed camp gear, we were more than happy to dish out the extra $30 to stay at Hector’s family’s Hospedaje de Callao. Zach and I agreed that he could have named any price and we would have eagerly consented for shelter from the tábanos for the night. We ended up getting far more than shelter, as we got to spend the evening speaking with Hector and his brothers about their land, animals and the farm. They also shared their homemade bread, butter, cheese and milk, all of which were delicious supplements to our packed food.

Hospedaje de Callao. Precious sanctuary.

View of Volcan Puntiagudo from the hospedaje.

Beginning of day two. Eleven miles to go.

One of the many awesome farm pets. I almost stole this guy to give to my mother. Almost. Don't worry Dad. Still on the farm. You're welcome.

Another fun swinging bridge without side rails.

Bandana in hand for constant swatting.

Appreciating a rare break from the bugs to enjoy the setting and a veggie pita lunch.

Day two was a brutal 11 miles again accompanied by the loyal horseflies. Thankfully, we managed to find a boat that saved us from a third day of being bug chow, and immediately started making plans to get to a completely new region of Chile. 

Now on a ferry far, far away from the tábanos Zach and I laugh at our, let's call it 'character building', first trek and unexpected initiation to Patagonia. Hopefully now that we've paid our dues with the tábanos, it will be a smoother ride here on out.  

El Camino Inca

On the second leg of our journey, Lesley and I ventured into Peru for a chance to hike the Inca Trail and visit Machu Picchu.  Over the course of 4 days, we hiked 26 miles along the historic (and hilly) route through the Andes.  The trail, built by the Incas between the 11^th and 15^th century, winds through the mountain tops and passes significant Inca ruins before it ends at Machu Picchu. 

The whole team, including our amazing chef and the hardest working porters in Peru.  

At the start of the trail.  In addition to Lesley and I, we had two Americans and two Australians join our group.  As you can see, Lesley and I were the only ones foolish enough not to spend the extra money and hire a porter for our bags.  They were certainly heavy, but not nearly as burdensome as those carried by the porters on the right.

The town of "Km 82" where the trail picked up.   

The trail and Inca sites within the Urubamba Valley, including Machu Picchu, were abandoned by the Incas during the 15th century after the Spanish had begun colonizing what is now Peru.  As the Incas fled deeper into the Amazon jungle, they destroyed the first section of the trail to keep their whereabouts secret.  The trail and Inca sites, known only to locals, was "rediscovered" in 1911 when American explorer, Hirman Bingham, photographed the site and brought specialists to begin excavating the ruins. When Bingham arrived, he found 10 families still living at the site.

A local woman selling drinks to thirsty hikers along the trail.   

Many families still live along the trail.  Anything they do not provide for themselves locally must be brought in by horse or donkey.

A profile of the trail.  

The first day of the trail, from Km 82 to Wayllabamba was relatively flat.  Along the way we stopped at several Inca sites and enjoyed the rare, sunny weather for this time of year.

Llaqtapata, or "town on hill" is the first Inca site we came upon during our trek. 

The second day proved to be the most challenging.  With rain throughout most of the day, we climbed the highest point along the trail, Dead Woman's Pass at 4,200 meters (13,779 feet).  

Lesley as she ascends the last few stairs to the top of the pass.  

View from our campsite at Pacaymayo on day 2.  

Weather can change in an instant as the clouds roll through the Andes.  

Happy to be in a tent and out of the rain.

Day 3 was similar to day 2 and unfortunately we were plagued with lots of rain.  However at the end of the day the clouds parted and offered us a incredible view of Machu Picchu mountain.  

Stairs, stairs, and more stairs on day three.  

The Inca sites have remained almost entirely intact since being abandoned in the 15th century.  Surviving hundreds of years of weather and dozens of earthquakes, there is no doubt that the Incas were impressive architects and civil engineers.   

Some of the many llamas that roam freely along the trail.  

Taking a much deserved break after climbing down thousands of stairs on day 3.  

At the end of day 3, we had clear weather to explore the terraces of Winaywayna.  

While hiking the trail in the off-season has its drawbacks (rain), the absence of hikers creates an unspoiled view of the sites.  At Winaywayna, it was just us and our guide exploring the terraces created by the Incas to farm in this steep environment.  

From our campsite on day 3 after the rains passed.

Day 4 started at 3:30 AM to ensure we made it to the Sun Gate for a view of Machu Picchu at first light.  We were lucky to have a clear day as we explored the most famous of the Inca cities.  

When we first arrived at the Sun Gate, Machu Picchu was nowhere to be seen.  Huaynapicchu mountain (which we would later climb)  was the only thing not dominated by the clouds.

However as if on cue, the clouds parted within minutes of reaching the Sun Gate, revealing a mystical looking Machu Picchu below.  

From the sun gate.  

And of course, the requisite postcard photo from above the city.  

A view from the temple that sits at the highest point in Machu Picchu.

The amazing structures of the urban section within Machu Picchu.  Huaynapicchu looming large in the background.  

After hundred of stairs, we made the long, and at times scary, climb up Huaynapicchu.  The view of the city from above is unbeatable.

As Lesley and I spend our final days in Peru, we are sad to leave the amazing food, people, and culture we've discovered in here.  Our experience has been great but far too short.  However as we prepare to leave, we are excited for what comes next.  Over the next month and half, we will be backpacking through the endless tracks of wilderness in Patagonia. Can't wait!

New Zealand: Photo Blog

So our defense story this time for slack blog upkeep is a combo of too much fun exploring (as always) plus the condition that our last long adventure was spent voyaging around New Zealand in a camper van where we rarely connected to a power source, much less received a reasonable internet connection. That, and the sand flies of New Zealand are to blame. I’m not sure how, but they were so so intolerable, that I plan on blaming just about anything I can on their wrath for a long time.

To get us back on track, we opted to cover New Zealand with a photo blog. New Zealand truly is a country where a photo is worth a thousand words anyway.

Meet Vanilla Thunder in all her glory. The camper was our home, transport, and most importantly, sand fly refuge for 5 weeks and countless kilometers.

View driving through Te Urewa National Park on the North Island.

Exploring one of so many caves.

The less glorious daily tasks that come with the camper van...

Daily mapping and tracking our trip in the atlas. Not a bad view for a free camp ground.

Cooking up some breakfast in our not so spacious kitchen.

Enjoying the views with some Lemon & Paeroa, a classic NZ soft drink.

Z at a look out over the Putangirua Pinnacles, one of many incredible Lord of the Rings film sites around the country.

The shores along Cape Palliser Lighthouse offer incredible views as well as home to lots of ornery seals.

Playtime.

A favorite winery on our  bike tour through Blenheim.

More playtime (after some wine touring...)

Prepping for our Thanksgiving away from home. Spoiler alert: we opted for the more affordable chicken in place of a turkey...

Prepping our makeshift barbecued chicken.  Not pictured: fire extinguisher for the likely event we lit the field ablaze.

The spread: thyme bbq'd chicken, cranberries with orange zest, mashed potatoes and gravy and prosciutto stuffing ...and wine.  Not bad for a campervan kitchen meal.

Kayaking in Abel Tasman National Park.  The beach is one of many throughout the park accessible only by boat.  

At a lookout surrounded by Kowhai trees, informally known as NZ's national flower.  These breathtaking plants blanketed mountainsides and riverbeds throughout the South Island.

One of countless scenic hikes along the coast.  

Another roadside pullover to photograph the incredible river valleys.  

Up close with a Kea in the Fox Glacier parking lot. This alpine parrot is not shy and happy to beg for a meal-- or tear the rubber linings off your vehicle.  

On lunch break trekking the Copland Track. 

Z crossing one of the many footbridges on Copland Track. They were one person maximum  and swung high over raging rivers and falls as you teetered across.

The natural hot springs where we camped on Copland Track.

We could have stayed here for days had the sand flies not been total terrors.  

New Zealand's rivers are almost all crystal blue and and white, a result of the particulate suspended in the water from glaciers upstream.   

To get to this glacial lake, we hiked hours through lots of recent land slide zones due to recent heavy rainfall. This destination certainly was worth the trek.

Playing in the natural beauty of Fiordland. The fallout of a handstand gone wrong.

Another film site for Lord of the Rings. Another of NZ's natural playgrounds. 

Putting up defenses against the elements of Milford Sound. Despite our preparations, we were both drenched by the end.  Water fall mist got the best of us.  

Beautiful Milford Sound!

Waterfall responsible for drenching us head to toe.

The only penguin we saw our entire trip. This little loner was pointed out to us on our Milford Sound tour.

A church with a view like this could make anyone a believer.

Wild flowers, lakes, forests, mountains, and Lesley.  

Another feast for the eyes, complete with the Kowhai bushes I fell in love with.

Happy boy.

After a short stop over in the US, we are back to South America to (sadly) wrap up our travels. We'll be doing a few treks in Peru, then heading to Patagonia to spend most of our time camping. We'd love any recommendations from friends who have wandered those ways before.