Wow, time really flies when you're eating your way through the street food stalls of Vietnam. Clearly we have been enjoying southeast Asia-- so much so that we have neglected to blog.
Zach, or Mr Jack as he is more commonly referred to in these parts, is in China and has some key 'Nam pics, so I will jump ahead. I spent last weekend in Yogyakarta, Indonesia where I climbed Asia's most active volcano, had a front row seat for an intense Selo village ritual dance and visited the temple of Borobudur at dawn with Abby, a great friend from the motherland, Colorado, USA.
Abby and I flew to Yogyakarta where we met up with Sony, the owner of the home stay located at the base of the volcano. As he drove us to his village, Abby and I were eager to hear about Indonesia, Sony's lifestyle and Mt Merapi, and Sony was equally eager to share. He chatted a bit about everything... How he doesn't actively participate in religion (he likes to drink too much), but he firmly believes in karma. How he has traveled through Europe with a German girlfriend (don't worry, his wife "didn't mind"), but preferred the pace of and his status as 'the man' in Indonesia. How his life is far from traditional, but he works hard, takes care of his family and simply loves to share the natural wonders of his country.
Mt Merapi is active. Really active. It has blown its top an estimated 68 times since 1548, and erupted as recently as 2010 during which time 6,000 residents were evacuated and 30 were killed. Directly against the warnings of the state, Sony not only stuck around his beloved volcano, but guided journalists up the erupting mountain to get footage for a documentary. When we playfully asked if Sony considered himself insane, he smiled and calmly replied, "I know I am not normal, but I knew when we needed to leave."
Like Kilimanjaro, our trek began in the dead of night, but that's basically where the similarities end since I maintained mental sanity and feeling in all extremities. Our ascent was about a four hour trek that started in jungle, progressed to sandy ash dunes and ended with a steep yet entertaining rock scramble. Other than one 30 minute refuge in a cave to let a storm cloud pass, weather was fantastic and we reached the summit around 5:30 am. In Merapi's case, summiting at dark not only permits a spectacular position for sunrise, but also provides a breathtaking view of the vibrant lava churning within the crater. On the top, the volcano intimidatingly awakened the senses with the sulfuric smell of smoke, the sensation of heat from the molten rock and the daunting growl of the living mountain as if to remind that you are completely at its mercy. It was incredible to be so close to one of mother nature's true powerhouses. Outdoor adventures, and for me climbing in particular, evokes such a humbling reverence for natural wonders and this was truly a highlight for me in that respect.
Abby and me at the summit around 5 AM. While you can vaguely see the lava behind us, the heat, the glow and the sound of the molten rock was a powerful presence before sunrise.
Beautiful sunrise over Java
Descending against the gorgeous sunrise.
The steep and deep ashen rock allowed for a descent that almost felt free of gravity and full of bounce-- the sensation you would imagine walking on the moon.
The night before our trek, Sony invited us to a ritual dance in his village. It was a select group of men who dance together to begin, but increasingly become possessed by supernatural spirits.
Villagers spectating at the ritual dance.Some of the most friendly and welcoming people I have ever encountered in my travels.
Sunrise at Borobudur temple.
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