Exploring The Wild Coast

Over the past couple weeks Lesley and I have made our way along the Wild Coast of South Africa, enjoying a coastline like no where else in the world.  Since leaving Umkomaas, we have spent our days in Port St. Johns, Coffee Bay, Mdumbi, and Cintsa.  

In Port St. Johns, we spent several days exploring the area from a hostel outside of town.  In the mornings we would walk the 4 km into town for coffee or groceries alongside local school children and women.  Almost without exception, everyone will say hello or good morning, sometimes in English, sometimes in Xhosa.  It wasn't long before we both felt very comfortable throughout the community and a connection to the people.  During the days, we explored the beautiful scenery along the coast line.  

Big waves along an outcrop of rocks.

After a hike to the top of the cliffs which flank the city of Port St. Johns.  Two dogs from the hostel walked with us the entire time, often leading us when the trail was difficult to find. 

After leaving Port St. Johns we headed towards Coffee Bay, a popular backpackers stop along the South African coast.  Again, we spent a couple days exploring the coast line.  However the number of  backpackers in the area detracted from the local culture that Port St. Johns had offered, so we decided to walk to the nearby town of Mdumbi.

Mdumbi is a very tiny town off the beaten track and is only accessible if you have your own car or walk.   Lacking the first option, we packed up what we needed and walked the 4 hours to Mdumbi. Directions are usually pretty simple in South Africa, this was no exception.  We were told to, "walk up the coast for a few hours.  You'll cross a big river and eventually reach Mdumbi".

We did, sometimes on a trail, but mostly just walking through fields of grazing cows, goats, and sheep that don't seem to belong to anyone in particular.  There are no fences to speak of and animals seem to graze wherever they choose.  Several times we saw goats walking into homes, cows soaking up sun on the beach, and sheep lounging along cliffs edge. 

Later when we asked someone how people keep track of their animals. We were told that everyone shares the land and that people recognize the animals like they would a neighbors kid.  The idea of dividing land was foreign here and property lines don't exist in even the vaguest form.  If you want to move on to some land in the area, you talk to the village leader and find some area that isn't being used.  It was a strange concept for me to wrap my head around, but it has been the standard in Mdubi for many generations.  

There is not much in Mdumbi; one small shop for food, one liquor store, one restaurant.  If you want to eat at the restaurant, you need to call the day before so the women who owns it can go buy food for you.  When we went to the shop after sunset, the boy working lit a candle for us so we could see what was available.  As you can guess, Mdumbi is a simple town, but characteristic of so many rural towns that occupy South Africa.  But what it might lack in accommodations it makes up for in the beauty of its beach.  Hands town, beats any beach in Hawaii.  Warm water fed by the Indian Ocean breaks off the coast and rolls slowly over soft sand without a rock in sight.  But what makes it so unique, is the fact that it hasn't been taken over by beach front condos or resorts.  Save for a couple Xhosa huts, the coast line has been left untouched.  

We were told the several years ago, a hotel developer tried to purchase land for a large resort.  The community, while in need of the money that the hotel would bring in, banded together to prevent the development of its coast.  Of all the places I have travelled, this is the first time that I've truly stumbled upon an undiscovered gem; hopefully in remains that way.  

After Mdumbi, we headed farther west and stopped in Cinsta.  While Cinsta rivals Mdumbi with its beaches, it's definitely been discovered.  The coast is dotted with some amazing homes, mostly vacation spots for the wealthiest South Africans.  We met some great travelers in Chintsa and it became our favorite spot for spending long nights in the bar, making friends from around the world.  It didn't hurt that we could nurse our hangovers with a big breakfast prepared each morning by "the mamas" on their deck.  

After the bar tab ruined our budget for the month, we packed up and left for Storms River.  Tomorrow we take off to start a 5 day hike along the Otter Trail.  The trail, which only is opened to 12 people each day, books up months in advance.  We have been the envy of many South Africans that we've told about our trek and can't wait to share our experience with everyone.  
Until next time, cheers!