Since leaving the lions, Lesley and I have made our way towards the Wild Coast and have settled in Umkomaas for the past few days. Umkomaas is a sleepy little beach town with only a few streets dominated by dive shops. The town is famous for the Aliwal shoal, a dive spot off the coast. We decided we couldn't pass up the opportunity and booked a few reef dives.
On the morning of our dives, we woke up to howling winds and an angry ocean outside our bedroom. The dive shop planned to go as scheduled, so we geared up and drove out to the launch site. In the past, I've always dived from your standard dive boat, but in Umkomaas they do things a bit differently. There is no bay or dock in Umkomaas, so all the boats must battle the break to get out to sea. And when I say boat, I mean more like a supped up dingy. As we all loaded on the dingy and donned our life jackets, our skipper gave us his safety speech while smoking a cigarette. "Hold on tight to the ropes and brace when we hit the waves. If you see that I'm not on the boat anymore that's a bad sign, means you shouldn't be either". Check, thanks skipper. He revved up the engines and made a few loops looking for a reasonable wave to take on. After a minute or so, he put the engines in full throttle and punched it over the waves. After getting a bit more hang time in a boat than I'm used to, we came down with a thud, still in the boat. Skipper turned around to check we were all there, still smoking the same cigarette. After letting go of my death grip on the bow line, they all had a good laugh at how wide eyed Lesley and I were. Our first dive was great but when we surfaced the swells had become too big to launch again and they cut the day short.
On our second day out, the seas had calmed down and made for a less exhilarating boat ride out to sea. We did one reef dive, and then were convinced that we should join some of the others on a baited shark dive. About 30 minutes after large buckets of sardines were thrown in the water, we began to see sharks swimming around the boats only a foot or two under the surface. Watching these big long shadows torpedo around the boat was something out of a movie. While the idea of hopping in the water with them (without a cage mind you) seemed a bit ridiculous, the fact that our guides were still alive after doing so many was comforting. After donning scuba gear and rolling into the water, we immediately saw the feeding frenzy that was taking place. Best guess, 60 or so sharks were swimming around our chum bucket, taking nips at the sides of it. We stayed down for about 30 minutes watching the sharks and plethora of other fish that the bait attracted. After the initial shock of getting in the water with sharks passed, the experience was surprisingly calming. The sharks were amazing to watch and Discovery's shark week doesn't do it justice when your looking at them face to face only a couple feet away. An experience I would highly recommend to anyone who gets the opportunity.
Since leaving Umkomaas, we have settled down in Port St. Johns for a few days. But more about that later. We miss everyone at home and love hearing from you. We hope that everyone is well and keeping their distance from the fires.
Wednesday, June 27, 2012
Wednesday, June 20, 2012
Ukutula: Lion Land
We are just over a month into our trip, onto country number four, continent number two and still enjoy being around each other! Amazing.
Upon arriving to South Africa, we headed north of Johannesburg in our rental car (which was an adventure all in its own) to a lion reserve called Ukutula. On our two day stay, we had the privilege of playing and interacting with lions ranging from one month to six months old, and visiting and learning about the rest of the adult animals the reserve studies and cares for.
Hanging out with the little ones was our favorite and how we spent a few hours each day. These guys are four weeks old and were transitioning from milk to meat while we visited.
At around two months old, the cubs are transitioned to another group referred to by the staff as the Devils because at this age they begin to get increasingly 'naughty'. In other words natural instinct kicks in, and they start displaying behavior of a deadly predator and not a house kitten... Try to climb trees, leap out of enclosures and stalk and 'playfully' tackle caretakers and visitors. This unstoppable power of instinct, despite being raised by humans and in captivity, allows for many of the lions born in Ukutula to be rehabilitated and released into the wild.
Zach and I were still able to interact with this age group (2-6 months) during which time they showed off both their cuddly side, but also their Devil side.
Looking not so threatening belly up.
Zach spooning with Harry, one of the older Devils.
The devils stalking us to 'play'. It was very fun until the claws and fangs got through your jeans, jacket, etc
The same devil Zach spooned with just hours before showing his less cuddly side. A couple minor puncture wounds, a huge bruise and a torn puffy coat later, we finally pried Harry off Zach's leg.
Devil looking at me like I'm dinner as I approach to play.
This male was negotiated from a private owner and is one of the three males in the reserve used for breeding. All the males born within the reserve must be exported to other reserves or rehabilitated to prevent inbreeding. Rehabilitation for males is particularly precarious. The playful socialization the males grow up with within the reserve is a behavior that would get a lion killed approaching a new pride in the wild.
Many of the lions of Ukutula possess a recessive 'white gene' which creates this beautiful rare looking lion with bleached fur and blue eyes. This gene is so rarely found that National Geographic recently featured the lions of Ukutula in their documentary 'In the Womb'.
We reluctantly said good bye to the lions in our rental car after a two day stay. One bogus traffic ticket, two lost/stolen hub caps and a couple turns onto the wrong side of the road later, we hopped on our bus and were on the way to Durban.
We miss you all, and hope times are happy at home, wherever that may be. For the next month and a half, we are making our way down the coast ending in Capetown. We would love any recommendations from past travels!
Upon arriving to South Africa, we headed north of Johannesburg in our rental car (which was an adventure all in its own) to a lion reserve called Ukutula. On our two day stay, we had the privilege of playing and interacting with lions ranging from one month to six months old, and visiting and learning about the rest of the adult animals the reserve studies and cares for.
Hanging out with the little ones was our favorite and how we spent a few hours each day. These guys are four weeks old and were transitioning from milk to meat while we visited.
At around two months old, the cubs are transitioned to another group referred to by the staff as the Devils because at this age they begin to get increasingly 'naughty'. In other words natural instinct kicks in, and they start displaying behavior of a deadly predator and not a house kitten... Try to climb trees, leap out of enclosures and stalk and 'playfully' tackle caretakers and visitors. This unstoppable power of instinct, despite being raised by humans and in captivity, allows for many of the lions born in Ukutula to be rehabilitated and released into the wild.
Zach and I were still able to interact with this age group (2-6 months) during which time they showed off both their cuddly side, but also their Devil side.
Looking not so threatening belly up.
Zach spooning with Harry, one of the older Devils.
The devils stalking us to 'play'. It was very fun until the claws and fangs got through your jeans, jacket, etc
The same devil Zach spooned with just hours before showing his less cuddly side. A couple minor puncture wounds, a huge bruise and a torn puffy coat later, we finally pried Harry off Zach's leg.
Devil looking at me like I'm dinner as I approach to play.
This male was negotiated from a private owner and is one of the three males in the reserve used for breeding. All the males born within the reserve must be exported to other reserves or rehabilitated to prevent inbreeding. Rehabilitation for males is particularly precarious. The playful socialization the males grow up with within the reserve is a behavior that would get a lion killed approaching a new pride in the wild.
Many of the lions of Ukutula possess a recessive 'white gene' which creates this beautiful rare looking lion with bleached fur and blue eyes. This gene is so rarely found that National Geographic recently featured the lions of Ukutula in their documentary 'In the Womb'.
We reluctantly said good bye to the lions in our rental car after a two day stay. One bogus traffic ticket, two lost/stolen hub caps and a couple turns onto the wrong side of the road later, we hopped on our bus and were on the way to Durban.
We miss you all, and hope times are happy at home, wherever that may be. For the next month and a half, we are making our way down the coast ending in Capetown. We would love any recommendations from past travels!
Sunday, June 10, 2012
Feeling at home in the Andes
After convincing Chilean customs that my reason for not declaring my Brazilian black beans was that I was sincerely being an absent minded idiot and not a malicious bean smuggler, we were on to country number two: Chile.
We spent about a total of 24 hours wandering the streets and seeing the sights of Santiago, then set off south to a reserve called Cascada de las Animas.
Not sure if it's the restaurant that sells an $8 Carmenere, the decor of antiques that remind me of my mother or the fact that it's a cozy mountain refuge, but Cascada de las Animas almost immediately felt like home for us. When we stepped outside for breakfast the first morning, the frosted yellow leaves on the trees, crisp fresh air and looming rocky mountains had me convinced I was back in Colorado...except there was an alpaca in the yard in place of my family's golden doodle :)
The land has been owned, run and passionately protected by the Astorga Moreno family since 1840, during which time they've battled against behemoths like gas companies and the Chilean government to maintain the land's integrity. While our first day was rather lazy due to prior night's over consumption of said Carmenere, our second day we capitalized on the gorgeous trails of the refuge. The trek was about a four hour loop highlighted by waterfalls, a cliff overlook and Zach and me taking a short cut through a barn that involved hopping through a bull's pen.
Aside from the delicious raw tomatoes and avocados that we brought from Santiago, we depend on the hotel's restaurant for our meals, and they do not disappoint. Our favorite meal has been cazuela de vicuña: a traditional broth soup served boiling in a cauldron with rice, a cob of corn, peeled potato, chunk of squash and a slice of vicuña shank. If you aren't familiar with what a vicuña is (we weren't) here's a pic of the funny looking guy:
The restaurant is cozy and intimate, and not just because Zach and I are often the only ones there since it is the off season, but also from the crackling wood fires, the view of the mountains and river and the occasional kitty that will curl up on a vacant chair at your table.
More to come soon, but as the sun is setting, Zach and I have to build the fire in the old wood stove in our room (he'll probably build, I'll, um, supervise...) that keeps us from completely freezing each night.
We spent about a total of 24 hours wandering the streets and seeing the sights of Santiago, then set off south to a reserve called Cascada de las Animas.
Not sure if it's the restaurant that sells an $8 Carmenere, the decor of antiques that remind me of my mother or the fact that it's a cozy mountain refuge, but Cascada de las Animas almost immediately felt like home for us. When we stepped outside for breakfast the first morning, the frosted yellow leaves on the trees, crisp fresh air and looming rocky mountains had me convinced I was back in Colorado...except there was an alpaca in the yard in place of my family's golden doodle :)
The land has been owned, run and passionately protected by the Astorga Moreno family since 1840, during which time they've battled against behemoths like gas companies and the Chilean government to maintain the land's integrity. While our first day was rather lazy due to prior night's over consumption of said Carmenere, our second day we capitalized on the gorgeous trails of the refuge. The trek was about a four hour loop highlighted by waterfalls, a cliff overlook and Zach and me taking a short cut through a barn that involved hopping through a bull's pen.
Aside from the delicious raw tomatoes and avocados that we brought from Santiago, we depend on the hotel's restaurant for our meals, and they do not disappoint. Our favorite meal has been cazuela de vicuña: a traditional broth soup served boiling in a cauldron with rice, a cob of corn, peeled potato, chunk of squash and a slice of vicuña shank. If you aren't familiar with what a vicuña is (we weren't) here's a pic of the funny looking guy:
The restaurant is cozy and intimate, and not just because Zach and I are often the only ones there since it is the off season, but also from the crackling wood fires, the view of the mountains and river and the occasional kitty that will curl up on a vacant chair at your table.
More to come soon, but as the sun is setting, Zach and I have to build the fire in the old wood stove in our room (he'll probably build, I'll, um, supervise...) that keeps us from completely freezing each night.
Thursday, June 7, 2012
One down, many to go
Preparing to leave Brazil and move on to the next country, Chile, we have now been on the road for a little more than 3 weeks. We started our trip in Rio, a sprawling metropolis of more than 11 million. We didn't know the language or what to expect. There were plenty of mistakes we made as we tried to navigate our way through a country where few outside of the hostels spoke english. Things move fast in Rio; you can get walked over if you idle on a busy sidewalk and I'm fairly certain that most of the bus drivers are training for the Indy 500. But it did not take us long to adapt and begin to feel comfortable here. We began deciphering bus schedules in Portuguese, learned the value of a Real, and most importantly, where we could get a cheap beer.
After a week, we left the fast paced lifestyle of Rio for the island of Ilha Grande. Ilha is an oasis that gave us a chance to catch our breath after navigating the maze of Rio. Surrounded by some of the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen, and covered in dense jungle, Lesley and I quickly eased into the island culture. Late breakfasts, lazy days on the beach, nights drinking caipirinhas. From there, we made our way to Paraty, another lazy beach town.
Living our lives out of hostels has been an adventure all in itself and has been the biggest adjustment from our lives in the US. We've learned to live without most of the luxuries we're used to at home and begun to appreciate many of the small things. After a while, you get used to the lack of privacy, the occasional cold shower, and a couple stinky roommates. But it has given us the opportunity to meet people from around the world that I can't ever imagine crossing paths with in any other way. Some have been traveling just a month or two, others for years. People have shared some amazing stories with us. I'm sure we'll have a few of our own to share by the end.
After a week, we left the fast paced lifestyle of Rio for the island of Ilha Grande. Ilha is an oasis that gave us a chance to catch our breath after navigating the maze of Rio. Surrounded by some of the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen, and covered in dense jungle, Lesley and I quickly eased into the island culture. Late breakfasts, lazy days on the beach, nights drinking caipirinhas. From there, we made our way to Paraty, another lazy beach town.
Living our lives out of hostels has been an adventure all in itself and has been the biggest adjustment from our lives in the US. We've learned to live without most of the luxuries we're used to at home and begun to appreciate many of the small things. After a while, you get used to the lack of privacy, the occasional cold shower, and a couple stinky roommates. But it has given us the opportunity to meet people from around the world that I can't ever imagine crossing paths with in any other way. Some have been traveling just a month or two, others for years. People have shared some amazing stories with us. I'm sure we'll have a few of our own to share by the end.
Tuesday, June 5, 2012
The Rest of Brazil: Photo Blog
The last of the pictures from Brazil. Enjoy!
Kayaking through mangroves in Paraty, an old colonial coastal town.
On one of our hikes in Ilha Grande.
We took this picture when we found a rare break in the jungle canopy. Behind us is Seco do Seu, one of the many bays at Ilha Grande.
The chef in the kitchen, beer in hand.
Saying hi to a monkey on Sugar Loaf. They're more like squirrels in Brazil.
Cloudy sunset from Sugar Loaf.
On the ferry to Ilha Grande after the 5 AM bus from Rio. Clearly we'd had a long day of travel.
After a day of being lazy on the beach, we opted to take the ferry back to town and skip the 2 hour hike through the jungle.
Jungle river pic.
At the top of Ilha Grande's highest peak. The island, like much of Brazil, is covered by a dense green canopy.
Hanging out on the dock.
Ocean kayaking to mud baths. They were more like sludge swamps out of a horror movie. Lesley had a minor panic attack at about knee deep. Not quite as relaxing as it was advertised. Paraty in the background.
A view of Abraao village, the main town on Ilha Grande, from Parrot Peak.
The tide came up on the hike back.
Found this guy cleaning a rug from his house. Not a bad place to take care of some house work.
A bit tired after the hike to the top.
Kayaking through mangroves in Paraty, an old colonial coastal town.
We took this picture when we found a rare break in the jungle canopy. Behind us is Seco do Seu, one of the many bays at Ilha Grande.
The chef in the kitchen, beer in hand.
Saying hi to a monkey on Sugar Loaf. They're more like squirrels in Brazil.
Cloudy sunset from Sugar Loaf.
On the ferry to Ilha Grande after the 5 AM bus from Rio. Clearly we'd had a long day of travel.
After a day of being lazy on the beach, we opted to take the ferry back to town and skip the 2 hour hike through the jungle.
Jungle river pic.
At the top of Ilha Grande's highest peak. The island, like much of Brazil, is covered by a dense green canopy.
Hanging out on the dock.
Ocean kayaking to mud baths. They were more like sludge swamps out of a horror movie. Lesley had a minor panic attack at about knee deep. Not quite as relaxing as it was advertised. Paraty in the background.
A view of Abraao village, the main town on Ilha Grande, from Parrot Peak.
The tide came up on the hike back.
Found this guy cleaning a rug from his house. Not a bad place to take care of some house work.
A bit tired after the hike to the top.
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