Abridged trip to Cambodia: Angkor and Killing Fields

Due to our lengthy love affair with Vietnam, our time in Cambodia was significantly cut short. Nevertheless, we hopped on a bus from Bangkok to Siem Reap to make the most of our eight day trip there. This particular journey involved two bus rides, a tuk-tuk ride, a shared taxi and two typical tourist scams. The first was an attempt by our tuk-tuk driver to sell us fake visas, which we anticipated and were able to avoid. The second was with the real Cambodian immigration officials who demanded extra money for our visa for no apparent reason. When we respectfully protested this minor extortion, they just told us to wait in a corner where we were ignored until we gave in and paid up some extra baht. Effectively defeated by the all-powerful customs official, we reluctantly loosened the purse strings and were on our way.

The next day at the crack of dawn, we were off to see the Temples of Angkor, a system of  ancient hindu and buddhist ruins that collectively sprawl for 1,000 square kilometers making it the largest preindustrial city in the world. The region thrived from the 9th to 15th centuries as the capital of the Khmer (ethnic Cambodian) Empire. Today, the jaw dropping temples quietly stand among glowing green rice paddies and are enveloped in dense jungle as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

While we were a bit sleepy from our late arrival into Cambodia the night before, we were quickly energized upon meeting our guide Kamsan, whose humble physical stature was countered by a huge smile and a warm, enthusiastic presence. Not being huge 'temple people', Zach and I were incredibly thankful to have a guide as engaging, passionate, knowledgeable and fun as Kamsan. If you are planning an Angkor trip, check out Kamsan at Happy Angkor Tour and you won't be sorry!

Angkor Wat: the Mother of Angkor's temples. It was built in the 12th century and is the largest Hindu temple complex in the world. We went here first thing in the morning as about 10,000 visitors flock here each day.

Grazing the temple grounds.

Bayon Temple was one of our favorites and unique among the Angkor system for the enormous, enigmatic faces carved into the pillars.

Ta Prohm, or the Jungle Temple, was another favorite. It was a beautiful and breathtaking demonstration of nature reclaiming its ground.

Another shot of trees consuming Ta Prohm.

Walking with Kamsan at Ta Prohm. The 900 year old temple has certainly begun to succumb to the forces of nature.

After A LOT of persuasion from Kamsan that this hole in the tree was not infested with Cambodia's infamous spiders and other creepy crawlers, I hesitantly jumped into the tree for a photo op.

One of many mentioned above creepy crawlers that we came across.

Beautiful end to day one of tour.

The Banteay Srei or Lady Temple was carved from red sandstone which allowed for intricate carvings that were remarkably well preserved despite being over 1,000 years old.

Many of the temples were set against vibrant rice fields. A common view in Cambodia and this region of the world, but it never gets old.

After Siem Reap, we bussed to Cambodia's present capital Phnom Penh. From the bus station, we grabbed a tuk-tuk to drive us to the hostel we had selected from our guide book. When we told him the address, he replied "You no want that hotel. Is place where old men take young women." Assuming he simply wanted to take us to a hotel where he could receive a commission, we thanked him but politely asked he take us there anyway. This time we were not getting scammed, and the driver could not have been more accurate. The hostel was above a straight up brothel. Needless to say, we thanked the driver for his initial warnings and asked him to take us to some alternative hostel we had ready. 

If Siem Reap was our crash course in ancient Khmer history, Phnom Penh served us with a heavy dose of Cambodia's recent history. Our only full day was spent touring Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields which together relay the tragic events that occurred under the Communist Khmer Rouge regime from 1975-1979. Disgusted by years of foreign rule over Cambodia, the Khmer Rouge sought to become an entirely agrarian, self-sufficient nation. When they came to power, all citizens were forced from their homes in the cities to countrysides to labor from dawn until dusk, often with little or no food. As well, all intellectuals, religiously affiliated individuals, soldiers or anyone remotely associated with the former regime and way of life were executed along with their entire family. This in addition to death by starvation, disease and being overworked led to the killing of 2 million Khmers during the four year reign. 

The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum was a high school in Phnom Penh that the Khmer Rouge converted to a prison and interrogation center. After some weeks or months of torture and forced confessions, prisoners were taken straight to the Killing Fields in the middle of the night where they were thoughtlessly killed using shovels, clubs or hammers, as bullets were considered too valuable to waste on executions. Of the 17,000 people that were cycled through this particular center, only seven men survived because the prison depended on their talents as mechanics, carpenters, painters and photographers. One of the survivors was present at the prison the day we visited. Never in my life have I become so overwhelmed by respect, sorrow and awe in someone's presence. I felt rather ashamed by my speechlessness, but to this day I am not sure what the appropriate words would have been.

High school converted into prison cells. Razor wire was added to prevent individuals from committing suicide.

This tree at the Killing Fields was devastatingly discovered to be a tool that Khmer Rouge executioners used to kill the babies of parents they had executed. An infamous quote of the Khmer Rouge regime read, "To kill the grass, you must also kill the root."

A memorial containing more than 5,000 human skulls excavated from the mass graves at these Killing Fields. This was one of hundreds of fields used across Cambodia, many of which cannot be accessed to this day for investigation due to millions of remaining land mines and unexploded ordnances across the nation.

One week is not nearly enough time to experience the ancient marvels and recent tragedies of this remarkable nation. I loved Cambodia, but left with a void. I want to go back. I want to see more of Angkor and visit Kamsan to hear how his children are doing. I want more nights out in bustling Siem Riep. I want more time to understand fast paced and utterly complicated present day Phnom Penh. Hopeful to return sooner than later.

Vietnam: Part 2

In Hoi An, we hooked up with Mr. Binh and Mr. Chao from Easy Riders and took the scenic route to Hue.  For several days Lesley and I rode on the back of their motorcycles while they guided us along the historically significant Ho Chi Minh trail.  Snaking through rugged mountain terrain, the trail served as a vital supply line for the North Vietnamese Army and was the target of prolonged bombing campaigns by the American and South Vietnamese Armies during the Vietnam War.  My driver, Mr. Binh, candidly shared stories of his war affected youth: months living in tunnels to escape bombings, being abandoned by his mother who fled to the US, and subsequently having to support himself on the streets of war torn Vietnam.  Binh's testimonies and commentary about Vietnam’s history painted a picture better than any book or article I had read on the subject.  As an American, it was hard not to feel partly responsible for the heartbreaking stories of Binh and others who lived alongside him.  Spending time with Binh and hearing his firsthand account of the war and its aftermath helped me understand the region in a way that would have been impossible from home. 

The narrow road twists through dense jungles and mountainous terrain.  

I think Lesley is ready to buy her own hog.

The Ho Chi Minh Trail.

After spending a couple days exploring Hue we took the train up north to Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam.  We were unsure of what to expect after hearing that the people in Hanoi could be rather cold and unwelcoming considering their recent history with Americans.  However the interactions we had with locals were anything but, and Hanoi turned out to be another one of our favorites.  We had the chance to meet many residents of Hanoi while in the city and if there was any lingering resentment from the war, it was hidden from us.  

Imperial palace in Hue, used by older Chinese dynasties.  

Street food!  We returned to this place several times where we cooked our own veggies and meat on a barbecue   

A common afternoon snack in Hanoi, peanuts and iced tea.  

Good luck crossing the street.  

While in Hanoi, we decided to join some of our roommates at a local snake farm which offered the chance to eat “fresh snake”.  Lesley and I both consider ourselves adventurous eaters and will try anything once, but after the snake farm I can confidently say I have found my limits.  As soon as we arrived at the snake farm, we were asked if we would like to eat the heart.  We clearly didn’t have time to comprehend what we were getting into considering how easily we made this decision and said yes.  But our folly soon became clear.  A bag of live snakes was brought out-- one for everyone foolish enough to say “yes”.  One of our roommates was brave enough to go first.  The snake was held firmly, his side cut open, and his beating heart was pulled out (still attached to the veins) where it was then bitten off and swallowed.  If that wasn’t bad enough, it was chased with a shot of rice wine (bad enough on its own) and snake blood, drained from where you just ripped its heart out.  After watching this horror show, I quickly made up my mind that there was no way I was doing that.  But that changed after Lesley quickly volunteered to go next.  There was no way I could let my girlfriend go as I chickened out.  That’s right, we both ate the beating heart of a snake out of its body and drank its blood.  I posted a video of Lesley on YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0r_o21nNnQ&feature=g-upl).  If you just ate or have a weak stomach, maybe skip over the pictures and video for now.  Safe to say that this was by far the strangest culinary experience of our trip. 

First the heart.  

Then the blood to wash it down.   

More blood shots before dinner, just for good measure.  

And the rest of our snake was for dinner.  

The end for this snake is close...

After our forays into the extreme, we took a few days to explore the mountains and rice fields of Sapa, a town inhabitant by several ethnic minority groups that sits along the border between China and Vietnam.  For several days we hiked through the terraced rice fields that line the river valley.  At night, we stayed in the homes of locals who provided us with a mattress on the floor and a home cooked meal.

Home cooked meals, Vietnamese style.  

Some local kids taking a break next to a construction sight.  

These ladies were our guides as we made our way through the valley.  

The terraced rice fields created a dramatic backdrop.  

A boy and the family water buffalo.

Our last stop in Vietnam was to Ha Long Bay which features thousands of limestone karsts jutting out of the crystal blue water.  We spent two days on a private island owned by one of Vietnam's more infamous youth hostels.  Days were spent rock climbing, wake boarding, exploring coves on kayak, and being lazy on the beach.  To cool off at night, we’d take swims in the dark lagoon which was filled with bioluminescent organisms.  Swimming in the water, it looked as if you had created a path of shimmering blue and gold stars in your wake.  The underwater light show seemed like magic and made Ha Long Bay equally as amazing at night as it was during the day.   

Taking a dip off the boat.  Not a bad place to swim.

A local fisherman made his way though the thousands of rock formations that make Ha Long such an amazing place.  

Vietnam: Part 1

And we’re back!  I know it’s been a while and I haven’t been the most diligent blogger (slash totally absent).  My last post was from Kilimanjaro, which now seems like a world away.  Since then Lesley and I have made our way through several countries in South East Asia, maybe having a little too much fun to make time to blog.  Over the next week I’ll post several entries and lots of pictures catching everyone up on the adventures and highlights we've seen over the past couple months.  

Leaving Africa was an adventure all its own.  What was supposed to be a long travel day turned into an outright collapse of the transportation system.  Leaving from Moshi, Tanzania, we hopped on the 6 AM bus to catch our flight in Nairobi, Kenya later that afternoon.  After being cramped in the back for 7 hours, we reached the airport and started what was supposed to be three flights from Nairobi, to Addis Ababa, to Bangkok, to Ho Chi Minh City (previously Saigon).  However the pilot of our first flight had a different idea.  An hour into the flight, we looked up at the monitors and noticed that our plane on the map was in fact heading south, back into Tanzania and away from Ethiopia.  I immediately thought we boarded the wrong flight before I realized other people had the same realization.  A passenger in front of me had a moment of panic, grabbed a flight attendant and exclaimed, “We’re going the wrong way!”  He was in fact correct.  Turns out Kenya’s President of Commerce was on the plane and mid-flight decided he’d rather go to Tanzania, not Ethiopia.  The pilots and flight attendants thought this minor change in our itinerary wasn't worth notifying us about.  We landed back in Tanzania (where we had just spent the last 8 hours trying to get out of), dropped off our distinguished guest, and then made our way to our original destination, turning the quick two hour flight into a 6 hour ordeal.  After our small diversion, it only took us another two flights to make it into Ho Chi Minh.  Arriving there about 48 hours after we left Moshi, we were exhausted, dirty, and ready for some new clothes.  But of course, the bags didn't make it (and wouldn't for another five days).  Defeated, we settled into our hostel in Ho Chi Minh. 

While getting to Ho Chi Minh was no treat, we both quickly fell in love with the city.  The amazing food, friendly people, and live atmosphere have made this one of our favorites.  The city is made up of a maze of alleyways snaking between the main streets, each one with its own personality and unique street foods to offer.  We spent many hours exploring the hidden gems this city had to offer and could have spent many more if time permitted.  One of our favorite spots was along Bui Ven where we would sit along the streets in little plastic chairs, drinking 50 cent beers and sampling street food as vendors pushed their carts by us.   Our favorite was fried crab in garlic and butter served with a chili vinegar sauce. 

Eating like the locals

Outside of Ho Chi Minh are the Cu Chi tunnels, an extensive network of underground passages used by the Vietcong to attack and hide from American troops.  Clearly Lesley is taking this historically significant sight seriously.

Floating markets in the Mekong Delta

At the floating market, merchants would hang a sample of what they were selling on a pole above the boat.   

Bees! 

And snakes!

Dragon fruit

Lotus flower

After Ho Chi Minh, we spent three days exploring the Mekong Delta before heading north to Nha Trang for some sun and beach.  After we were both sufficiently sunburned, we left for Hoi An.  Another one of our favorites, Hoi An offered great eats and a small town atmosphere.  To try and learn how to make all the delicious foods we’d been eating, we enrolled in a cooking class.  Our class started early in the morning where our instructor guided us through the many stalls of the local market.  She explained how to find the freshest produce, what spices to look for, and which fish would provide the best flavor.  After finding our ingredients, we returned to the restaurant where we whipped up a traditional Vietnamese lunch. 

On stage for my duet of CCR's, Have You Ever Seen the Rain 

Before all the jelly fish got to her...

Snorkeling in Nha Trang

Along the streets of Hoi An, posing like the locals do

Local fruits at the market

Women selling fresh veggies along the street. Can you spot the duck in the shopping bag?

Fruit stall/play pen

At the market buying food for our cooking class

Prepping the dumplings for our soup

And the result

Mango salad, fresh from the market, so good.

Spring rolls served with a vinegar and chili sauce.  

Banh Xeo, a traditional Vietnamese dish.  We wrapped shrimp, fatty pork, diced green onion, and bean sprouts in a fried pancake made of rice flour, water, and turmeric powder.

From Hoi An, we departed for Hue, but instead of our normal transportation through Vietnam (bus), we hopped on the back of motor bikes with the Easy Riders.  But I’ll save that one for the next post.  

And we're lost... Good luck trying to read a Vietnamese map

Lesley learning to cook from the locals during a home stay

Snake wine.  Of course we had to try some.

Date night

Night lanterns hanging along the bridge in Hoi An